Products and how to use them

The following information is about products we recommend and how to use them. Please also see our section about engine priming and checking.

1.    Plastic gauge
Comes in 4 four sizes:

  1. Green AG-1 for .001/.003
  2. Red AR-1 .002/.006
  3. AB-1Blue .004/.009 Y
  4. AY-1 yellow .008/.016

It is mainly used to check bearing clearances in engines. The bearing & journal must be dry.  

  • Place the flexi-gauge across the pin at the crown (at 12 o'clock), tension the cap but don’t let the crank rotate.
  • Remove it and check the squished gauge against the calibration on the packet to get the clearance.
  • Remove all traces of the flexi-guage.
  • Lube up the bearings.

It can also be used to check oil pump end float.


2.    Arp bolt lube
A very slippery molly grease which must be used under all arp bolts & studs (if not it will affect the torque of the bolt).

It is important that when your engine is machined that your machinist uses bolt lube (rods bolts, main bolts & studs head studs and torque plates).

It only needs to be used on the nut end on the studs and between the washer & the bottom of the nut. An excessive amount should not be used, otherwise the excess just ends up in the oil (remember you will be trying to bed in rings).

On the bolts put the grease on the threads, between the washer and on the underside of the bolt.

3.    GM sealer
This is gasket cement which can be used on all paper and cork gaskets.  It is especially good on intake manifolds to stop them pulling in oil. (You will find out how good when you try to get it off and have to break the seal). 

It also works well as a bolt sealer where threads go into water.
 

4.    Wurth flange sealer
Works well as metal to metal flange sealer and takes up gaps to .5mm. This is also a great thread sealer into water (head studs, screw in studs, exhaust manifold studs).
 

 

5.    Cam lube grease
The only two types I use are Crane Cams in smaller packages and Joe Gibbs in a big tube. 

Make sure you wash the cam and lifters first as it is imperative that the cam and parts are extremely clean. Inspect them for chatter or damage then coat the lobes, bases of the lifters and the gears with the grease but not the journals which already have oil. (See also below)
 

6.    Clevite bearing guard
This is an excellent product for bearing protection.

  • Wash all bearings and journals first
  • Completely coat the bearing running surface (not the thrust flange-use oil on that).
  • Great on dummy assembling as it stops the bearings getting marked. Also great to use on final assembly- especially if the engine is going to sit around for a while.
     

7.    Rod bolt boot
This is a handy addition to any engine assembly tool box and you can use them many times. The rod bolt boot can be just put on to the rod. Bolt just before fitting the piston into the bore.

 

8.    Loctite

  • 262 Red is great as a high strength stud or bolt retaining compound and sealant and fantastic for sealing & retaining welsh plugs. Do not use on small diameter bolts.
  • 242 Blue medium strength bolt sealant & retaining compound more suitable for smaller bolts.
     

9.    Degree wheels
We have two available- Moroso 14” and Crow 7”. Obviously the bigger the wheel, the more accurate it is but be sure that it fits properly.
 

10.    3 Bond

  • Grey SS1 is a great sealant for tin oil pans to blocks or valve covers to heads with no gaskets. Corner joints with cork and rubber and will take up gaps to 3mm plus.
  • 1215 Thin Sag type is excellent for two ridged surfaces with reasonable surface finish such as crank cases. This can be used when they cannot add to bearing clearance or gearbox intermediate platesor cam boxes.


11.     Running In oils

  • Joe Gibbs BR 30 is a great light weight 10/30 oil that is of high quality for standard or multi valved micro bearing clearance styled engines. No heavy work load until running in is complete 800/1000 should be plenty.
  • Joe Gibbs BR50 Straight 50 - weight is good for big clearance engines and should be preheated to 40 deg C before starting or oil starvation many occur in small orifices & restrictions. the use of up to 2 hrs of Dyno load is ok!
  • Burson 30 Running In Oil is OK for standard to mild low stress engines.
  • Penrite 15/40 Running In Oil is for older V8 engines with mild performance and slightly bigger clearances.
  • Keep synthetic oil away from new engines as it’s too slippery and stops lifters from rotating and rings from breaking in.  Also oil with friction modifiers in them and high detergent levels.
  • Just about all cam manufactures today recommend that you add an oil additive package to your oil to help with cam running in, but remember, you are trying to bed rings in too. Like lots of things in engines, it is a compromise.
  • Comp Cam Oil Additive.
  • Crane Cams Oil Additive